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The Mediterranean wasn't azure blue that day, but rather a shade of blue-grey that's rarely seen in the region. It was neither azure nor calm, instead rather deep, complex and subtle - a perfect echo of the collection that strode out just above it. Saturday evening in Monaco, the Mediterranean Sea was the natural setting of the Cruise 2014 collection designed by Raf Simons for Dior. Perched above, on the jetty of the port, the immaculate cube that housed the fashion show could boast an endless horizon as a backdrop. In its thick coat of contemporary colour, the sea seemed almost to be reflecting what it saw on the runway: a subtle complexity, delicately veiled with a tangible lightness. Raf Simons' whole idea is expressed right there: playing with transparency and layers, giving an item of clothing several levels of interpretation. As misleadingly simple as it was presumably complex, the collection remained assuredly subtle, rich in contrast and surprise. Such was the case with a pink astrakhan coat opening over metallic blue knickers, or a black wool jacket revealing a pink and green knitted bra. It's also and especially illustrated in the lace that could be picked out on a jacket lapel, the back of a dress, or that provided a peek at cotton underwear beneath. Lace is the metaphorical common thread running through this Resort collection.
"The two primary ideas on which I've focused are lace and the notion of energy ," explains the creative director of women's wear." For me it offered a real challenge because I'd never worked with lace before. I wanted to change the very perception of the fabric, so that it wouldn't be romantic, or historical, or old-fashioned, but light, fun and modern ."