A summery and festive ambiance greets Rami Malek, Jamie Bell, Kate Mara and the other Dior-wearing star guests to the show. The salon d’honneur of the Grand Palais, carpeted in grass for the occasion, is bathed in the rays of Paris sun that pass through the garlands of hanging black fringe. And the outfits that appear are those of young men getting dressed up for the first time, spontaneously mixing tailoring with sportswear.
In their black suits, sometimes worn directly against the skin, and paired with multicolored sneakers, the savoir-faire of the Dior Homme atelier is evident. It's a savoir-faire that the Creative Director Kris Van Assche explored and highlighted throughout the collection, in a subtle play of deconstruction and reconstruction. The jackets are highly structured, with the volume at the waist and the jacket skirt reinvented; here the back is open over a t-shirt and sliced off sleeves become a trompe l’œil waistband on another look; a swallowtail jacket is reconstituted from a medley of fabrics. The suit becomes a hybrid garment, being lengthened into a summer coat, its lower parts sewn to a shirt or polo shirt, its sleeves short and trimmed with a sporty selvage. The atmosphere of the atelier itself comes through in the white embroideries evoking basting stitches, or in the ribbons that read “Christian Dior atelier”, inspired by the ones tailors use on their workroom mannequins.
As if these young men on the runway had tweaked their clothing for going out and seducing, these reinvented suits are combined with pieces evoking the world of the American college. Red, white and black knits give the suggestion of a uniform. A logo of laurel leaves with the legend “latenight Paris” appears on sweatshirts, bomber jackets and t-shirts. The oil paintings of François Bard, printed and sometimes embroidered onto jackets, shirts and bags, echo this particular attitude in which hoodies and bright colors act as a signature. In addition to these paintings representing silhouettes, for this collaboration Kris Van Assche chose a still life in which the artist depicts white orchids in a somber mood, a subtle nod to the love of flowers of Christian Dior, whose legacy Dior Homme unceasingly revisits.