Yesterday afternoon, Raf Simons presented his autumn-winter 2014-2015 haute couture collection for the house of Dior. Discover the video and our analysis of the show.
It looked for all the world as if a spaceship had landed yesterday in the gardens of the Musée Rodinn Paris. A Dior spaceship whose futuristic walls were covered in white orchids that mirrors in turn reflected to infinity. The guests who embarked into this round space, radiating an almost fantastic light, were carried away by the looks dreamt up by Raf Simons in a veritable voyage through time, across centuries of elegance both past and future. It was an odyssey punctuated by eight stops, to which eight groups of women guide us.
The first stage of this odyssey? The 18th century, so dear to Christian Dior, and of which Raf Simons delivered an incredibly contemporary vision. Pannier dresses revisited and lightened with airy tulle petticoats. Pastel colors, cream, celadon green, pale pink, which, due to their delicacy, appear almost white. As the models roamed the runway, and their hands slipped nonchalantly into the pockets of these court dresses 2.0, the splendor of Versailles meshed with a sense of relaxed purity.
Taking a light-year leap, we’ve suddenly been projected straight into the 21st century, between past, present and the near future. In the Dior spaceship the outfits boast technical details. Strutting past in zippered and embroidered taffeta pilot suits, are these women couture cosmonauts or elegant ladies dressed for evening?
Guided by their confident walk, we follow other groups to the early years of the 20th century. In their long Edwardian coats of cashmere or fur, which seem practically to sweep the floor, they also explore new color horizons: the soft pastels have given way to clear colors and, to the rhythm of their steps, as a dark fabric flares open, trouser legs appear in flashes of fuchsia, emerald green and bright red.
And the voyage continues, exploring the eras with boldness and lightness: court bodices transformed into couture miniskirts, next the splendid justaucorps of an 18th-century marquis which become evening coats, worn simply over black trousers; the garçonne allure of the 1920s, reinterpreted in fringed and embroidered dresses… And of course the Bar jacket, whose iconic architecture Raf Simons revisited by playing with the volumes of the collar. By turns peacoat, jacket or dress, its variations seem to have arisen from a trip through time, from the meeting between the house of Dior’s past and the modern vision of its creative director.