10.04 DIOR OVER THE WORLD

NEW HORIZON

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The Christian Dior spring-summer 2014 haute couture collection is away visiting Hong Kong. We invite you to rediscover the show.

It's an haute couture salon in the center of Hong Kong. A salon just like that of Christian Dior at 30 Avenue Montaigne when he presented his very first collection to the world on 12 February 1947. And in it one can find the familiar molding-enriched Trianon gray walls, and the medallion-back chairs. This decor is projected on a backdrop and acts as an invitation to travel through time and space to the Paris of the New Look . Behind the woodwork of a window one can see a seamstress buried in her work and, turning around, it's Christian Dior himself in the middle of sketching. The charming flashback stops abruptly like a stage curtain being raised, and it's then that the  guests discover the modernity of the collection against the urban backdrop on the bay that's revealed when the video projections cease. We are now very definitely in Hong Kong.

 And it's very definitely 2014, as a play of transparencies and layering, and a contemporary approach to the handling of embroidery and cut-outs runs through the collection. Openwork fabrics lend lightness to the silhouette, and the female form is sometimes shown, sometimes concealed, sometimes hinted at. It's an abstract and poetic collection. The line appears pure and pared down, but reveals a complex construction inside, the masterful work of the House ateliers. A shoulder bared by the asymmetry of the top of a dress. The sleeve of a Bar jacket that balloons at the elbow. A dress whose impeccable hang sculpts the body. The arrival of a look that's finished off with sneakers. This is the new insouciance spirited in by Dior.

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