Yesterday afternoon, Kris Van Assche showed his Dior Homme fall-winter 2014-2015 collection at the Tennis Club de Paris. We take a look.
He advances to the strains of a piano, his movements measured, looking devilishly elegant in an impeccable three-piece suit. In his buttonhole,a sprig of lily-of-the-valley as a trompe-l'oeil embroidery. An elegant fantasy of a modern dandy? A good-luck charm for the superstitious? Within this man, walking along the runway with as much panache as in a social salon, the very allure of Christian Dior can be found. That of a man both flower-lover and superstitious, forever with a sprig of lily-of-the-valley on his person. That, in particular, of an elegant anglophile, a champion of the flawless cut of the Savile Row suit.
Did you say classic? From outfit to outfit the building blocks of the male wardrobe are enriched with detail and daring, as the different codes and the couturier's lucky charm punctuate the collection: silver coins mounted as pins, lily-of-the-valley on a tiepin, fine white star embroideries on a suit jacket or dots on moccasins, black roses that appear scribbled on shirts.
Throughout the show, the Dior man's style becomes freer and more urban: the plays of print and embroidery give a twist to the classic look of a worsted wool jacket, a leather ribbon upsets the perfect geometry of a suit's pinstripes, a multi-pocket waistcoat in denim or khaki canvas shatters the codes of the traditional suit. Gradually, the Dior man reveals his different faces: he's a dandy bundled up in a long lambswool coat like a modern-day Oscar Wilde, an active man who pairs his suit with a large camel parka, a city-dweller in white sneakers and rolled-up jeans who looks to the streets for his style and ease. And when the show ended and the lights came up once more, the very idea of this Dior man of a thousand identities seemed to have become a reality. The spectators, among them the actor Will Smith and the rapper A$AP Rocky, had placed in their buttonholes the sprig of lily-of-the-valley that had awaited guests on their seats, like a homage to Christian Dior whose lucky flower is now a signature of the Dior man.