Dior by Gianfranco Ferré, 1989-1996
Photographs by Laziz Hamani, Texts by Alexander Fury
Dior announces the release of Dior by Gianfranco Ferré, published by
Assouline Publishing in Europe on 15 December and in the United States on 15 January 2019. Featuring
photography from Laziz Hamani and written by journalist Alexander Fury,
this fourth volume, in an unprecedented series of books devoted to each of the
fashion label’s artistic directors, reveals the rigour and precision of cuts, as well as the opulent
fabrics that set apart the Italian couturier’s silhouettes.
At the dawn of the 1990s, Gianfranco Ferré provided a glamorous, daring touch, enhanced
by sumptuous materials, rich colours and voluptuous, exuberant silhouettes,
for a femininity that was both sophisticated and contemporary – and powerful too, highlighting
the growing power of women in society.
The successor to Yves Saint Laurent and the duo of Marc Bohan and Frédéric Castet created
a new archetype: the woman of the moment, and not with a specific customer in mind.
From his first haute couture collection, presented in 1989 in the garden of the
Salomon de Rothschild Hotel, and until 1996, Gianfranco Ferré continued to draw on the
history and codes of Dior, to which he added a modern twist. He even revived
a tradition inherited by Dior’s founding couturier, by naming each of his designs.
The first non-French Artistic Director to work for the House, he is also the first
to have never collaborated with Christian Dior, with whom he, nevertheless, had a great deal
in common, like a passion for masculine-feminine blends and the colour
red, and for flowers and gardens, music and opera.
Hence, page after page, this new volume establishes an imaginary dialogue between the two men.
Both were fond of understated wool suits, which the Italian designer adorned
with a gold safety pin, and they were, more than anything, passionate about architecture.
“A dress as I design it is a work of ephemeral architecture intended to glorify
the proportions of the female body”, wrote Christian Dior, to which Gianfranco Ferré, who had a degree
in architecture, responds: “My creations are the result of a textile architecture designed
for the body, to give life to the body. ”
This exceptional work, illustrated with “portraits of dresses” that reflect the incredible
rich and diverse decorations down to the most minute details, offers a previously unseen look
at the talent and creative world of this great designer.
See the first few pages