Cruise 2018 show

11 May 2017 - Los Angeles - 7.00 pm (PDT)

Thus appears to le in the Lascaux frieze,

Mother fantastically disguised,

Wisdom, with eyes full of tears.

René Char

The  discovery  of  the  Lascaux  cave,  in  1940,  had  a  profound  influence  on  the  artists  of  the  time.  For  Georges  Bataille,  it  represented the dawn of the human race. The power with which animals are depicted (deer, horses, oxen) takes us back to the infancy of mankind and its relationship to nature, as well as the invention of art. In 1951, Christian Dior appropriated these rock paintings, making a print from them for his Ovale line, a form with allusions to primitive female depictions such as the Willendorf Venus. It  is  this  wild  and  ancient  femininity,  linked  to  the  magic  of  the  earth,  that  guided  Maria  Grazia  Chiuri,  Artistic  Director  of  the Dior  women's  collections,  throughout  the  creation  of  her  first  cruise  collection  for  the  House.  

Thus a  feminine representation takes shape, bringing into the present this shamanic intuition, this wild, almost bestial spirit of which Clarissa Pinkola Estés writes in one of the designer’s favorite books:  Women Who Run with the Wolves.

Maria  Grazia  Chiuri  is  constantly  seeking  new  ways  to  embrace  and  explore  the  Dior  heritage.  And  it  is  the  prehistoric  wolves which emerge from the Lascaux cave to take their place on extraordinary silk jacquards where the ocher, almost gold in color, contrasts  with  blacks.  Female  handprints,  reinterpretations  of  the  original  forms,  become  magnificent  sequined  embroideries  in earthy  shades. 

Maria Grazia Chiuri has appropriated the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers, reinventing it to tell her story in ideal forms. A story that alters proportions and lengths to correspond to the contemporary landscape, in which sport mixes with haute couture, where tradition becomes ornamental abstraction and where materials see their status changed.

The  celebration  of  instinct  leads  her  to  female  figures  who  have  chosen  to  isolate  themselves  in  the  desert  to  better  understand  the deepest  and  darkest  recesses  of  the  self.  Such  is  the  image  of  an  artist  like  Georgia  O'Keeffe,  emerging  from  the  sands  of  New Mexico.  A  hieratic  figure  occupied  with  collecting  carcasses.  This  is  what  Vicki  Noble  writes  in  Shakti  Woman:  Feeling  Our  Fire, Healing  Our  World:  "I  want  to  know  myself  from  my  sacred  center,  and  in  that  space  I  want  to  know  and  touch  others.” Tarots, in high-octane hues, were given a feminist reinvention as Motherpeace, a co-creation by Karen Vogel and Vicki Noble, and to which Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a pop interpretation in order to inject a fresh newness into Monsieur Dior’s beloved art of divination. The idea  that  a  person’s  smell  is  the  expression  of their soul can be found in the feminine take on an emblematic perfume such as Eau Sauvage. The intangible imprint of this wild, erratic figure restores woman once again to her place at the center of the world.

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Interview with Peter Philips

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Cruise 2018 show

11 May 2017 - Los Angeles - 19H00 (GMT+02)

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