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Dior by Gianfranco Ferré, 1989-1996

— Authors Photographs by Laziz Hamani, Texts by Alexander Fury — Publisher Assouline — Presentation Dior announces the release of Dior by Gianfranco Ferré, published by Assouline Publishing in Europe on 15 December and in the United States on 15 January 2019. Featuring photography from Laziz Hamani and written by journalist Alexander Fury, this fourth volume, in an unprecedented series of books devoted to each of the fashion label’s artistic directors, reveals the rigour and precision of cuts, as well as the opulent fabrics that set apart the Italian couturier’s silhouettes. At the dawn of the 1990s, Gianfranco Ferré provided a glamorous, daring touch, enhanced by sumptuous materials, rich colours and voluptuous, exuberant silhouettes, for a femininity that was both sophisticated and contemporary – and powerful too, highlighting the growing power of women in society. The successor to Yves Saint Laurent and the duo of Marc Bohan and Frédéric Castet created a new archetype: the woman of the moment, and not with a specific customer in mind. From his first haute couture collection, presented in 1989 in the garden of the Salomon de Rothschild Hotel, and until 1996, Gianfranco Ferré continued to draw on the history and codes of Dior, to which he added a modern twist. He even revived a tradition inherited by Dior’s founding couturier, by naming each of his designs. The first non-French Artistic Director to work for the House, he is also the first to have never collaborated with Christian Dior, with whom he, nevertheless, had a great deal in common, like a passion for masculine-feminine blends and the colour red, and for flowers and gardens, music and opera. Hence, page after page, this new volume establishes an imaginary dialogue between the two men. Both were fond of understated wool suits, which the Italian designer adorned with a gold safety pin, and they were, more than anything, passionate about architecture. “A dress as I design it is a work of ephemeral architecture intended to glorify the proportions of the female body”, wrote Christian Dior, to which Gianfranco Ferré, who had a degree in architecture, responds: “My creations are the result of a textile architecture designed for the body, to give life to the body. ” This exceptional work, illustrated with “portraits of dresses” that reflect the incredible rich and diverse decorations down to the most minute details, offers a previously unseen look at the talent and creative world of this great designer.

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