Bright Eyes | DIORMAG

23 June
Shows

Stars in Dior

J. Balvin, Kate and Lila Moss, Kelly Osbourne, Christina Ricci and a constellation of other stars attended the Dior men’s Summer 2020 show by Kim Jones on Friday in Paris. 

  • J. Balvin

  • Lila Moss & Kate Moss

  • Christina Ricci

  • Kelly Osbourne

  • Nick Robinson

  • Noomi Rapace

  • Natalia Vodianova

  • Romy XX

  • Kenshi Okada

  • Lily Allen

  • Johnny Huang

  • Stephane Bak

  • Miss Fame

22 June

Ambiance

22 June
Shows

Archeology of the Future

Held at the Institut du monde arabe in Paris, a place of cultural diversity and interaction rich in archaeological treasures, the men’s Summer 2020 collection by Kim Jones engaged in a dialogue with the disturbing universe of American artist Daniel Arsham. A vertiginously immersive journey in which the fashion became one with the artist's scenography and vestiges of the future.

©

Adrien Dirand

Greeting the guests, a huge clock, a replica of the one that used to sit on Christian Dior's desk, had metamorphosed into a precious relic. Surrounded by giant versions of the CD initials, like statues guarding a temple, it represented a reflection of a distant eternity. Eroded in several places, as if ravaged by time, with chunks bitten out of it, these symbols revealed startling cracks pierced with quartz crystals. “Archaeologist of the future” Daniel Arsham set out to imagine what an excavation site several thousands of years from now would reveal about our present.

 Located right at the entrance, a small room intrigued. Of a uniform whiteness, like pristine ancient marble, it appeared to be frozen in time. Recreating the familiar universe of the founding couturier, and celebrating his heritage, it reflected the American artist’s singular art based on exploring temporalities by conjugating them. 

 Finally, it’s on white sand, gradually shifting into a vibrant pink - whose intense nuances radiated throughout the décor – on which the models walked. Perfectly undisturbed sand, as yet untouched, the promise of a future yet to discover. Lit by an imaginary moon, like a fantasy exoplanet, the D.I.O.R letters, fascinating monolithic sculptures, also partially eroded and punctuated with crystals, inhabited the otherwordly space, as if emerging from a dream landscape, one that transformed with each footstep. 

21 June

The story of the future

This afternoon, at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, Kim Jones presented his Summer 2020 men's collection, a contemporary celebration of the House of Dior's heritage. Here, discover the press kit. 

©

Jérôme Verbrakel

The past of the future, now becoming then. The notion of the relic – the idea of constant evolution, investigation and creation of history – sits behind every haute couture maison. These houses are a living, breathing connection to a storied past, to another epoch – a testament to the power and currency of memory. For Summer 2020, Kim Jones, the Artistic Director of Dior men’s collections, explores this notion, collaborating with multidisciplinary American artist Daniel Arsham, whose work examines the archaeology of the present. The result is a testament to Dior’s legacy – one we uphold, one that is continually being created.

Sculpture and architecture were integral to Christian Dior’s work: his haute couture was moulded and structured – dramatic silhouettes and crafted clothes were soft sculptures in themselves. For this Summer 2020 collection, the shapes are supple, fluid, gently structured and featherweight, but combined with working methodologies and characteristics that evoke sculptural origins. Leather garments have details that are bonded, then sliced like a frieze; pieces are printed from the inside to capture features of cut during the printing process and throughout; and the tone-on-tone Dior Oblique monogram and shading express an idea of sculptural elements, like bas-relief. A colour palette of sun-bleached neutrals and intense colour recalls a monumental landscape.

A superstitious importance given to totems, the notion of luck and the magical properties ascribed to physical objects were part of Christian Dior’s ideological make-up. Elements of Dior – both hallmarks of the House and incidental pieces that express its physical actuality – here become emblematic relics. Items drawn from Monsieur Dior’s studio – his clock, his telephone – have been cast by Daniel Arsham, reminiscent of the artist’s Future Relics series. 

In its first-ever collaboration with the luxury luggage brand RIMOWA, Dior presents a unique capsule collection, including a backpack, a champagne case, a hand case, a clutch and a cabin suitcase, characterised by the German house’s iconic aluminium grooves. Forged with craftsmanship and expertise, this special-edition Dior and RIMOWA collection features the Dior Oblique motif and uses an innovative combination of anodising processes, whereby vibrant pigments are inscribed directly into the product’s aluminium skin, lending the design a high complexity of reflective, lasting colours that celebrate the spirit of the material as the building block of the collection.

As ever, the collection is founded on the history of Dior, its excellence of cut, tailoring and craft. But it also reinterprets modern history, a new heritage. The Dior newspaper print, introduced twenty years ago as part of the spring-summer 2000 haute-couture collection, is redrafted, once again in collaboration with Daniel Arsham. The collection also telescopes to now, underscoring styles Kim Jones has introduced to the house of Dior: a selection of neo-classics. The Tailleur Oblique of Kim Jones’s debut is reiterated, its details adapted to outerwear; the reinvention of the Dior Saddle bag continues, its curves adapted as storm-flaps on coats; and draped volant sashes introduced for Winter 2019-2020 evolve. Today, they have a shaded touch – dragging through the sand of the show décor, it appears as if they are already marked by the passage of a different measure of time. Others outline the lapels of tailored jackets, like cast shadows.

The notion of the hand is the essence of couture. Translating it to menswear continues: Parisian ateliers create clouds of pleated georgette, enveloping the figure like pigment in water while, expressing the universality of craft, toile de Jouy patterns are hand-painted by kimono craftsmen from Kyoto, Japan. Both methods recall another era.

In this collection, the hand of the House is joined by those of the artist Daniel Arsham and Kim Jones, interacting in a dynamic and constant creative exchange. Pieces have been worked by both the Dior men’s atelier and Arsham, who also examined the Dior archives to project into an imagined future, creating them as precious relics of a distant eon. New pieces have been prematurely aged, eroded, crumbled. Yoon Ahn’s jewellery designs have been taken, recast, eroded and returned by Arsham to be recreated by the Dior studio. Transparent shoes resemble casts in themselves, with socks visible inside. Graphics from Dior’s history become tablets in plaster, broken and altered by Arsham, reworked in silicone as appliqué badges applied across accessories. Continuing in a new tradition, established under Kim Jones, of artists reinterpreting the iconography of the Dior men’s Saddle bag, Arsham casts its form as an artefact: the resulting bags will be 3-D printed, in limited edition. The Dior logo is transposed, too: it becomes a façade, letters raised, with cracks and fissures worked into the surface of the cloth, worn by models walking through a desert scene filled with other monumental monoliths to Dior.

An interplay between past, present and future, the value of the past, looking ahead from the present – this collection explores anticipation and the elasticity of time, simultaneously looking back and forward. History is not immutable: it is dynamic, changing and alive. This collection is a tribute to Dior, the one that’s familiar and the one still taking form.

21 June
Shows

The Show Video

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