Autumn-Winter 2022-2023 Haute Couture Show

Défilé Haute Couture Automne-Hiver 2022-2023

Online on July 4th at 3.00 pm CEST

The tree of life is at the heart of Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko’s work, and the starting point for the Dior autumn-winter 2022-2023 haute couture collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Painting and embroidery give an emotional charge to this image that is a symbol for different far-flung cultures and mythologies.

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THE TREE OF LIFE

  • Initiating a new dialogue between arts and crafts, The Flow, a scenic installation imagined by Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, resounds like a hymn to life, rebirth and joy, exalted by the savoir-faire of the Chanakya ateliers.

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Reinvention(s)

  • Continuing Maria Grazia Chiuri's reflection on the essence of couture, the silhouettes of the Dior autumn-winter 2022-2023 haute couture collection reveal virtuoso skills, tracing a delicate poetry of the hand. More than mere decoration, embroidery transforms the very architecture of the garment, echoing the contours of the body. Raw, evident, rather than pearls and sequins, an entrancing interplay of fabrics. The notion of weaving, the essential act of crossing and combining elements to elaborate a structure, is reinvented through the work of craftswoman Aurélia Leblanc, who inserts interlinking, singular threads, divinely precious, ribbons and gold chains. Pleats are shaped, delicately inclined to one side, or reinterpreted through sumptuous smocks. A combination of exceptional craftsmanship revealing, more than ever, the audacious creativity and timeless modernity of Dior style.

Essential couture

For the Dior autumn-winter 2022-2023 haute couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to celebrate the gestures of craft as a symbol of unity, embodied by the tree of life – an emblem that appears throughout the looks, in a profusion of embroidery, galloon patchworks and playful smocking. Plant motifs appear on the back of a coat, on the front of a long black crepe dress, or on a cotton skirt with all-over trimmings. Expressing the Creative Director’s musings on folklore and tradition, tartan – a tribute to the founding couturier’s affection for fabrics typical of menswear – blossoms on delicately pleated wool ensembles and dresses. A timeless icon of the House, the Bar jacket is unveiled in an architectural version entirely embroidered with bold smocks, while a jacquard silhouette reinterprets the iconic Miss Dior model – imagined by Christian Dior for his spring-summer 1949 line – studded with flowers evoking Italian millefiori in a folk spirit that revisits different iconographies. In a plural collection, a singular ode to elegance.

© Morgan O'Donovan

Enchanted embroidery

Sublime punctuations, accessories celebrate the exceptional embroideries that flourish on the silhouettes of the collection, in a profusion of arabesques evoking tree of life botanical motifs. The fruit of virtuoso artisanship, the shoes are adorned with lace or guipure braids, which delicately hem the eyelets of laced boots or the heel of ballet flats. Heels are successively enhanced with lavish embellishments and pearly beads – also displayed on rings – adding a finishing touch of ultimate refinement. An enchanting detail, the tree of life also features on jewelry, notably on finely crafted bracelets, sculpted on a velvet ribbon that gracefully highlights the wrist.

    © Morgan O'Donovan