Spring-Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear Show
Online on September 26th at 3.00 pm (CEST)
Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior women's lines, dreamed up this spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection starting from a reflection on the meaning of the present. A present in which past and future must coexist simultaneously.
NOT HER is Elena Bellantoni’s new project specially dreamed up for the Dior spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear show: a monumental video installation with LED screens, nearly 7 meters high, created from a series of digital photographic collages. Drawn from archives collected by the Italian artist since 2015, this unique artwork, an engaged pop manifesto, includes over 300 images of sexist advertising.
Contrasts. Playing with various shades of white and black, from the brightest to the darkest, Dior's spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear looks dare all the opposites: elegance, purity and tears. Fabric, "…the sole vehicle of our dreams" as the founding-couturier referred to it, becomes a tool imbued with magic that combines destruction and reinvention. Jackets, skirts and pants are delicately frayed, while knits are graphically unravelled. Hypnotic prints – depicting the Eiffel Tower, the iconic Plan de Paris and a revisited herbarium – are tinged with mystery thanks to radiographic printing and dye effects. The Abandon silhouette, created for the autumn-winter 1948 haute couture line, is metamorphosed through shirts worn asymmetrically. Architectural cuts never stand still, but poetically dance on the ever-freer body. Fringes and pleats voluptuously complete a slightly rebellious, powerfully feminine, irresistibly Dior allure.
An echo of the mysterious aura suffusing the Dior spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection, the jewelry sublimating the looks dreamed up by Maria Grazia Chiuri are adorned with the zodiac signs, a tribute to Christian Dior's fascination with astrology. The grace of the silhouettes is accentuated by pointed ballerinas or low-heeled pumps, alternately embellished with mother-of-pearl or multi-straps that envelop from the ankle to the knee. Borrowed from the world of dance – another passion of the founding-couturier – the grosgrain ribbon decorating certain models evokes the pieces conceived by Roger Vivier for Dior in the 1950s. Lace-up boots worn with vaporous skirts in delicate fishnet or with virtuoso pleating, reflecting the idea of a plural femininity, at once sensitive and powerful, combative. As an ultimate surprise, the outfits are punctuated with long gloves – expressions of the savoir-faire of Agnelle glove-making – finished with details inspired by the emblematic Dior Tribales.
© NOT HER, a project and artwork by Elena Bellantoni
‘Seasons’ furnishing fabric designed by Olive Sullivan for Edinburgh Weavers, Carlisle, UK, 1955
© Olive Sullivan/Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Blossomtime’ furnishing fabric, manufactured by Morton Sundour Fabrics Ltd, Carlisle, UK, c. 1929
© Morton Sundour/Victoria and Albert Museum, London